Ralph Lauren does his tartan jig military-style with a brass-buttoned, double-breasted wool dress. Here, model Linda Evangelista kicks up her heels in a rendition of the Scottish Highland sword dance. Dress from Collection by Ralph Lauren. Hat by Summer and the Hat Man. Tights, Bonnie Doon. Shoes, Manolo Blahnik. Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington. In this story, photographed in northern Scotland: hair, Didier Malige forFrederic Fekkai at Bergdorf Goodman; makeup, Sonia Kashuk for Aveda. Transportation: British Airways.
Following in the footsteps of Monsieur Dior, who did a presentation at Gleneagles Hotel in 1955 Maria Grazia Chiuri will return to in Perthshire, Scotland, to present the maison’s 2025 resort show. It will be held at Drummond Castle, which “once welcomed Mary, Queen of Scots, and Lord Darnley,” reported Vogue 1924. To get in the spirit, here’s “A Shot of Scotch,” a 24-page September 1991 story starring a red-haired Linda Evangelista, styled by Grace Coddington and photographed by Arthur Elgort in the north of that bonnie Celtic isle.
For the Scots, tartan isn’t just folkloric; for some it’s everyday wear, and for certain Scottish regiments it’s the standard uniform. Isaac Mizrahi’s long Royal Stewart wrap dress, right, takes its cue from the kilt, which is traditionally worn with a tweed jacket. Dress paired with Mizrahi’s gray lamb’s-wool blazer. Blanket, The Ralph Lauren Home Collection. Tights, Bonnie Doon. Shoes, Manolo Blahnik. Left: Valentino checks out a tartan suit. Hat, Kangol. Tights, Bonnie Doon. Shoes, Manolo Blahnik.
There’s a run on schoolgirl tartan this fall—worn with peacoats, berets, and sometimes even knee socks and loafers. Here, Bill Blass’s double-faced wool peacoat, wool challis skirt, and navy wool turtleneck. Far from demure—the spicy scent of Bill Blass Hot perfume. Gloves, Naoli Misle. Socks, Ralph Lauren Hoisery. Shoes, Robert Clergerie.
Authentic tartans are registered designs, and today more than a thousand variations exist. Left: Black Watch, traditionally a man’s tartan, works for a woman too, as menswear becomes a favorite for fall. Black Watch jacket by Paul Smith. Tartan at a great price—a shirt by Brooks Brothers. Another classic—Real Pink Lip Spa Lipcolor by Elizabeth Arden. Pin, Butler & Wilson. Right: Looking out over the Beauly River from the island of Eilean Aigas in northern Scotland, a tartan medley. Randolph Duke’s raincoat. Light on the pocket: Body Action Design stretch pants. Beret, Eric Javits. Earrings, José and María Barrera. Bag, Polo/Ralph Lauren Luggage. Boots, Timberland.
Horsing around with tartan—model Linda Evangelista and Lord John Doune. Marc Jacobs, who designed Evangelista’s skirt, does a bit of horsing around himself by doing tartan up in silk taffeta. “It’s traditionally made of wool,” he says, “but since tartan is a pattern for festive occasions in Scotland, I did it in an evenign fabric.” Skirt by Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis N. Peal cashmere turtleneck. Beret, Kangol. Belt, Chanel. Stockings, Ultra Sheer by Hanes Hosiery. Boots, Chanel.
Right: The tartan skirt has always been intrinsic to Highland sporting life. Tossing the caber (a 17-foot-long fir pole), a variation on throwing the javelin. Players must wear kilts, but Manolo Blahnik’s tartan boots are optional. Pleated skirt by GSGS. Jacket with sheepskin trim by Jean Paul Gaultier. Beret, Normandy Manufacturing Corp. Gloves, Naomi Misle. Tights, Bonnie Doon. Shoes, Manolo Blahnik. Left: Pausing in the gardens of Cawdor Castle in the Scottish Highlands—Isaac Mizrahi’s graceful take on the sporting kilt. Cashmere-and-wool wrap skirt, suede jacket, and turtleneck bodysuit (sold with matching tights not shown). Belt, Chanel. Gloves by Shalimar Accessories. Tights, Bonnie Doon. Shoes, Manolo Blahnik.
Plaid on parade: a traditional bagpipe player strikes a chord with Oscar de la Renta’s high-stepping coat. De la Renta’s plaids are standouts—in unusual colors and oversize patterns. Striking another note—Oscar de la Renta Parfum, a floral fragrance. Hat, James Coviello for Oscar de la Renta. Gloves by Shalimar Accessories. Tights, Bonnie Doon. Shoes, Manolo Blahnik.
Two faces of plaid: sophisticated and casual. Left: A “riding” jacket that’s got real flare. Jacket and pants by Jean Paul Gaultier. Pin, Dominique Aurientis, Paris. Gloves, Naomi Misle. Boots, Calvin Klein Footwear. Right: Traditional men’s pajamas with classic appeal. By Brooks Brothers. Terry-cloth towel by The Ralph Lauren Home Collection. Brightening the menswear look: Christian Dior’s Holiday Red Haute Couleur Lipstick No. 836.
Bold maneuvers: Norma Kamali’s signature double-breasted menswear suit takes a leap into tartan on the wrought iron gates of Beaufort Castle, a privately owned Victorian estate near Inverness, Scotland. Wool suit, OMO Norma Kamali. Brooks Brothers long-sleeved cotton shirt. Belt, Polo Ralph Lauren Leathergoods.
Created to identify Scottish clans and their places of residence, tartans have now become a mark of international chic. Right: A double dose of tartan—Ralph Lauren’s double-breasted jacket goes under a plaid umbrella. Wool jacket and black stretch-velvet leggings from Collection by Ralph Lauren. Hat Kangol. Boots, Calvin Klein Footwear. Left: Tartan on a shoestring—Paul Stuart cotton pajamas. Pendleton’s wool robe and matching slippers. Scarf on couch, Amicale. Photographed at Eilean Aigas House, near Inverness in northern Scotland.
Attending a tug-of-war, one of many Scottish Highland games, is a summer tradition, even for the royal family. Here, shades of Lady Di—in the slim, sporty silhouette of a waterproof quilted parka over stirrup pants. Parka by Diapositive. Merino wool stirrup pants by Ralph Lauren Activewear. Earrings and orange bracelet, Gerard E. Yosca. Burgundy bracelet, Isaac Manevitz for Ben-Amun. Boots, Calvin Klein Footwear.
Along with the kilt, the tartan shawl was part of Scottish Highland dress even before, the 18th century. Today it’s a chic accessory. Right: Ralph Lauren’s wool version over Jean Paul Gaultier’s halter-neck dress with spaghetti straps. Throw by The Ralph Lauren Home Collection. Earrings, Butler & Wilson. Blanket around shoulders at Polo/Ralph Lauren. Bracelets on model’s left arm, bottom to top: Karl Lagerfeld Bijoux. Ralph Lauren Jewelry Collection. Bracelets on model’s right arm, botton to top: Karl Lagerfeld Bijoux. Isaac Manevitz for Ben-Amun. Stockings, Hanes. Shoes, Perry Ellis. Left: A ballerina dress with tartan shawl, tights, and ankle-tied shoes. Dress by Isaac Mizrahi. Shawl by N. Peal. Tights by Gamine. Shoes by Perry Ellis. Earrings, Dominique Aurientis, Paris. Bracelet, Karl Lagerfeld Bijoux.